Light Lab: afteriwas@whathappenswhen.com

afteriwas@whathappenswhen.com

is where patrons are asked to email pictures once they've stuck the sticker that comes with each bill "somewhere in the world."

Funny, how so far in the in the journey of 25 Cleveland Pl, "somewhere in the world" has been not of this world or of this time. Movement 2, which has just ended, resided squarely in the world of Shakespeare, in the heat-induced frenzy of a story told by A Mid-Summer Night's Dream in strict iambs. Movement 3, where I first encountered the space, brought me not into 1880's France, but ushered me into a canvas: a sea-washed, pastel painting of a party in 1880's France.

It works. It works because the food is good. And so, John Fraser, I will follow you.

Apart from the novelty of the concepts and the transformations, the menu makes sense, and the dishes are really spot on. All but one component, a blue veined blue cheese that came with the dessert cart, which left a foul (but gamely interpreted as "a once in a lifetime") taste. My party dubbed it, lovingly so, "varicose cheese." Cue gag reflex.

There was an incredible rabbit dish, a tender seafood appetizer with a fantastic cream sauce, artichoke hearts, my best chicken ever (BCE), and my best veal ever (BVE). All kicked off with a complimentary prosecco-st. germaine cocktail that smelled of flowers. What added to the experience was the way my party ate: one of everything, a bite of each, passing the plates across and around. What fun.